Aran Islands

After Ferry Ride to Kilronan

Watching for Seals

Trek to Dun Aengus

Cliffs at Dun Aengus

Stone "lances"

Stone Walls on Inis Mor

September 25, 2010

Breakfast was at 7:30 AM in the Park House Hotel dining room and was the usual hearty breakfast.  At 8:50 AM sharp, we started our short walk to the bus stop where we caught double-decker, city bus to the ferry landing; about a 40 minute ride.  The first bus was packed and we took the second bus, which was packed before we left the stop.  Everyone on these buses was heading to the Aran Islands ferry.  Blustery weather with gray skies was going to be the weather for the day and we were dressed in layers.  All the bikes were loaded onto the ferry and we climbed aboard and headed to the enclosed seating area for the 40 minute ride across Galway Bay to Kilronan, the ferry port on Inishmore Island.  We were greeted with a strong wind and after the bikes were unloaded and overnight packs loaded onto a tiny flatbed truck, we began biking to our guest house.  The lower road route took us along the shoreline with good views of the stone-fenced land and north shoreline. 

After lunch at a small café, we got our hiking shoes and began the trek to Dün Aenghus, which is the site of an old Celtic fort (1100 BCE) on the towering cliffs of the upper south side of the island.  In fact, we can see the fort from our room in the guest house.  The stone fortress is on the cliff-edge 300 feet above the Atlantic Ocean.  Its consists of concentric walls that are 13 feet thick and 10 feet in height.  Between the second and third “ring” are the strategically placed spiky stones that stick up like lances.  From the cliff’s edge there are spectacular views along the coast to the east and to the west with the surf crashing into blow holes and making the sound of a beating base drum.  The white sea foam is constantly “boiling” and falling from the rocks. 

Back to the hotel, I changed into my biking shoes and took a circular ride starting on the “high” road and returning on the”low” road.  Because the island is relatively small, the circular island ride was only 8.22 miles.  Tonight we have a home-cooked meal of Irish stew with Guinness.. 

Lisdoonvarna to Corcomroe Abbey

Heading Toward Kilfenora

Graveyard at Fachtnan's Cathedral

High Cross at Fachtnan's Cathedral

Countryside at Kilfenora (View from Cathedral)

Ruins of 13th century Noughaval Church

Old and New at Noughaval Church

Sue and Dotie

View from Top of 0.4 mi Climb (See road below)

12th Century Corcomroe Abbey Ruins

Corcomroe Abbey Chancel and Nave

Street Musician Group in Galway

Galway Street

September 24, 2010

After breakfast and our group briefing for today’s ride from Lisdoonvarna to Corcomroe Abbey, we hit the road at 9:15 AM.  This morning was probably in the 40’s with a clear blue sky, which is supposed to be duplicated through Sunday.  Although the temperature was much cooler than yesterday, the sun made the temperature feel much higher than when we were in the shade.  The countryside was such a rich green color with the limestone fences standing out.  Our first stop was in Kilfenora and a visit to the 12^th century St. Fachtman’s Cathedra (built around 1189) ruins.  The ruins contain the greatest number of 12^th century Celtic high crosses (10ft in height) that once were in strategic places around the church.  Continuing on we biked past the 13^th century Noughaval Church ruins.  The remains show that it was built and restored at various times between the 12^th and 14^th centuries.  It was occupied until the 18^th century and then abandoned.  Throughout the morning, we had very beautiful views of the Clare County countryside and also had the steepest climb of the trip that was about 04 mile in distance.  Our ride for the day ended at Corcomroe Abbey, a 13^th century Cistercian monastery (built between 1205 and 1210).  The abbey is noted for its detailed carvings and other rich ornamentation, which are not commonly found in structures from this period. It features a typical cruciform church facing east, with a small chapel in each transept, and is an example of early Gothic design.  The graveyard is still in use by families in the area and Easter service is held in the ruins each year.

A transfer bus was at the abbey to transport us to Galway for the night.  We had a brief tour of Galway in the afternoon and were told that the city was having their annual oyster festival this weekend.  We made dinner reservations at the Artisan and had an excellent seafood dinner – sole and sea bass along with oyster Rockefeller.  Tomorrow morning we depart Galway for a ferry ride to the Aran Islands to spend the day biking and sightseeing on the largest island, where we will spend the night.

Biking in the Burren

Riding Toward the Clare Coast

View of the Atlantic

Riding in The Burren

Sue and Bev

Galway Bay



Getting Ready for Shane's Lecture on the Burren



Shane Talking About the Fences



Lunch Break at Tea and Garden Rooms



Poulnabrone Megalithic Tomb



The Burren Terrain



September 23, 2010

After a full Irish breakfast (eggs, ham, white pudding, black pudding, sausage, roasted tomato), we gathered for our trip review at 9 AM and shortly thereafter hit the road.  The temperature was in the 40’s with a brisk wind and a threat of rain.  We left Lisdoonvarna and headed toward the Clare coast.  Within a short time we had a view of the Atlantic at a point just above the Cliffs of Moher.  Because there was some blue sky, the Atlantic looked blue against the bright green of the countryside.  The road we were on turned into the scenic coastal road after 3.1 miles for great views of the rugged coastline, Aran Islands, the weathered limestone of The Burren, and the waters of Galway Bay .  This rugged area is dominated by several mountains, castle ruins, and rocky cliffs.  Along the way we had intermittent rain showers and the continual wind, but beautiful scenery of farm houses, grazing cattle, and rock walls that covered the landscape wherever you looked.  Many of these walls (3 foot in height) have been dated back to over 1,000 years ago. 

Around noon and after passing Black Head, we arrived at Pinnacle Well and met Shane Connelly who gave us a 1-1/2 hr long walking tour of the Burren and discussed the geological features, archeological finds, historical highlights, and the floral/fauna of the Burren.  We were really impressed with the ruggedness of the area and amazed how people survived over the thousands of years of its inhabitance.  Today, very little farming occurs here and mainly cattle are grazed in the area, with the mountains being used in the winter and the valleys in the summer due to the unique features of the limestone.  Although located far to the north, the average daily temperatures only vary about 20 degrees between summer and winter – 60 in the summer and 40 in the winter – but there is a constant wind and lots of showers.   This accounts for the lush greenness of the area.  Originally the area was forested with fir and oak, which were completed cut over time.  Because the land has been abandoned except for cattle grazing, the natural process of reforestation is beginning to occur. 

We then biked the short distance to the village of Ballyvaughan where we stopped for lunch at the Tea and Garden Rooms.  Being inside in the cozy inn, felt great with a fire burning in the fireplace.  After this break, we started the return to Lisdoonvarna through the backroads.  After a 3.1 mile ascent with many switchbacks, we arrived at the Poulnabrone Megalithic Tomb that dates to 3200-3500 BCE.  The tomb is prominent on the barren landscape of the Burren.  It was excavated in the 1980s and found to contain the remains of 33 people.  The capstone is estimated to weigh 5 tons.  After leaving the tomb area, we had 9 miles of biking through the countryside on very narrow roads that several times appeared to less than one lane wide.  The scenery was great and we arrived back at the hotel around 5:30 pm.  After showering, we relaxed in the lobby with a glass of wine before another outstanding dinner.  Our entrée was Hake, a local Atlantic Ocean white fish with a goat cheese tart over caramelized onions and greens  or a pea soup starter.